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Dining: Ka-Prow
(December 22, 2006)
Ka Prow is a Pan Asian restaurant on Howard Lane just east of I-35. The name Pan Asian may be a bit confusing, but it simply means a variety of dishes encompassing the totality of the Asian dining experince. But with all due respect to the notion of totality of cuisines, for me Ka Prow is about the stunning Thai side of the menu. Chef Opart, who cut his spurs cooking at Thai Spice, can make Thai dishes that are undeniably outstanding. That is not to denigrate his other offerings, it's just that the Thai dishes are so damned good....
Where to start? How about with the Curries? They are flat out sensational. The Panang Curry which I like to get with Tofu has a searing flavor that encompasses the gamut of the Thai taste experiences. Not hot enough to bring tears, except perhaps those of joy from the great taste. And the Duck Curry with a red curry sauce will make you a believer. The grilled duck breast goes so perfectly with the curry that one senses some kind of mystic preordainment.
The noodle dishes take on a life of their own under the able hand of Opart. I love the Pad kee mao. This features stir-fried flat noodles with onions and tomatoes and a wonderfully mellow yet tangy flavor. And the Pad Thai, the classic Thai noodle dish, stir fried with egg, bean sprouts, ground peanuts and scallions is a light yet very plesaing dish. Opart's version of this is one of the best I've tasted in Cenral Texas.
You want more. I'm just getting warmed up. The Pad Prik King will make you a believer in the subtle appeal of the green bean. I like this dish with pork. The red curry sauce and the bell peppers are perfect complements to the crunchy beans. What flavor! And on the flavor front, nothing surpasses the Pad Ka Prow. I like this with tangy beef. The stir-fried mixture of onions, bell peppers, mushrooms, green beans, chili and garlic will leave you wanting more and considering asking for seconds as I have done on several occasions with this dish.
And for sheer audacity of flavor and innovation, you must sample the Jumping Shrimp. This Opart original features stir-fried shrimp in a Tom Yum sauce with zuccini, mushrooms and a melange of vegetables. The Jumping Shrimp will leave you breathless but also pleasantly grounded in the world of O's flavors. And moving from jumping to crying, a great choice is the Tiger Cried. This streak, simply but beautifully charbroiled with a zesty Thai sauce will awaken the most dormant taste buds. It's hard to believe how tender a piece of beef can be in the hands of Opart. Steak lovers will really enjoy this dish.
So venture over to KaProw this weekend or anytime over the holidays. This is a chef at the top of his game.
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